Thessaly rewards you with landscapes that don't look real until you're standing in front of them. In the west, the Pineios river valley sits where a lake once was, and 60 million years of weathering turned the leftover river sediment into the sandstone pillars of Meteora: dozens of them, some topping 400 metres, with centuries-old monasteries built right onto the flattened summits. Look east and the pillars give way to Greece's biggest wheat and cotton plain, then the land rises again into Mount Pelion, where two dozen stone villages cling to forested slopes above the Pagasetic Gulf. Greek myth places Chiron the Centaur's home on this same mountain, and has Jason's ship the Argo setting sail from Volos on its way to fetch the Golden Fleece.

Wherever you land in Thessaly, there's a base to match your plans. You could wake up under the Meteora rocks, spend a few nights in a Pelion village with the gulf laid out below you, or stay by the water in Volos and day trip out from there.

Where to stay in Thessaly

• Kalambaka and Kastraki. These two towns sit right at the base of the Meteora pillars. Kalambaka is the bigger, livelier option with more restaurants, while Kastraki is quieter, with a shorter walk to the rock paths. See stays around Kalambaka and Kastraki.
• Trikala. The region's practical hub, about half an hour from Meteora by car, with a proper town centre, a riverside promenade, and better bus and train links if you're not driving yourself. See stays in Trikala.
• Portaria and Makrinitsa. The two easiest Pelion villages to reach from Volos, both built from grey stone with slate roofs and mansions dating back centuries. Makrinitsa, set higher up the mountain, is nicknamed the "balcony of Pelion" for its view over the gulf. See stays around Pelion.
• Volos. The coastal city where the plain meets the sea. Handy if you want a working waterfront and a proper harbour, with easy access to both Pelion and the ferries out to the Sporades islands. See stays in Volos.

How much is Thessaly accommodation?

Expect to pay around AU$140 a night on average across the region, a bit more in Kalambaka and Kastraki given the Meteora views.

• Backpackers and hostels: from around AU$35 a night for dorm beds and simple guesthouses, mostly in Kalambaka and Volos.
• Budget hotels and guesthouses: from around AU$75 a night for a private room, usually with breakfast included and often family-run.
• Mid-range hotels and apartments: from around AU$115 a night for more space, a better location, and sometimes a pool.
• Boutique stays: from around AU$165 a night for a restored stone mansion in the Pelion villages, or a Meteora-view room in Kastraki.
• Luxury and resort stays: from around AU$250 a night for full-service hotels, mountain resorts, and the best rock or gulf views going.

Top-rated hotels in Thessaly

• Grand Meteora Hotel, Kalambaka. Rooms that look straight out at the pillars, good if you want the view without the climb.
• Meteora Heaven and Earth, Kastraki. An adults-only stay tucked right against the base of the rocks, a short walk from the monastery paths.
• Aurora-Inn, Makrinitsa. A village guesthouse with the "balcony of Pelion" view over the Pagasetic Gulf built right in.
• Archontiko Pantou Guest House, Portaria. A restored stone mansion with the overhanging upper floor Pelion's villages are known for.
• Azur Hotel Volos, Volos. Set between the waterfront promenade and the main street, an easy walk to the tsipouradika.

Tips for finding the perfect accommodation in Thessaly

• Book a Meteora room with a rock view early. Kastraki's best-positioned guesthouses fill up months ahead for spring and autumn, the two seasons with the clearest light for photos.
• If you're basing yourself in Pelion, look for a stay with parking. The villages sit on switchback roads, and a car makes it much easier to reach the coastal villages or catch the old Moutzouris narrow-gauge train.
• Pack for two climates in one trip. The Thessalian plain runs warm and dry while Pelion's forested slopes stay noticeably cooler, especially at night.
• Visit Meteora at sunrise if you can manage it. The rocks are quieter and cooler, and the light is better than during the midday tour-bus rush.
• In Volos, ask your hotel to point you to a tsipouradika, one of the small tavernas serving grilled seafood alongside the local spirit. Locals go most nights, so it's worth building an evening around.

Thessaly pairs easily with a wider Greek itinerary. Larissa and Trikala both sit on the main rail line north, and Volos's port has ferries out to the Sporades islands if you want to add a few beach days either side.