beautiful ryokan in the hills overlooking kanazawa. only stayed the night and wished i could have stayed a month. room was perfection, with splendid views, a vast bath, and a long wall covered with a panelled brush-painting of bamboo. for many the stunning dining room will be the central attraction as the chef creates multi-course dinners with lapidary presentation, including glass jars of smoked beef and tongue and shrimp hidden under a pile of autumn leaves and a huge persimmon infused with with distilled liquid for dessert. the staff were welcoming and thoughtful. a one-in-a-million traditional inn.