Labuan Bajo clings to the western tip of Flores, where wooden phinisi boats line the harbour and hills roll down to a sea so clear it mirrors the sky. It’s best known as the launchpad to Komodo National Park and its pink beaches, manta dive sites like Batu Bolong, island hikes on Padar that end in postcard views, and, of course, wild Komodo dragons.

But the town itself isn’t just a stopover. Think grilled ikan bakar at a harbourfront fish market, sunset beers and live music, and mornings smelling of spice and sea air.

Most travellers come here chasing Komodo dragons. Nowhere else on Earth can you see them in the wild, stalking the sun-soaked savannahs of Komodo, Rinca or Padar islands. But the magic doesn’t start — or end — there.

Labuan Bajo is known for its pink-sand beaches (yes, really pink), coral reefs teeming with manta rays, and boat trips that hop between jungle-covered islets. It’s a diver’s dream, a hiker’s playground, and a nature-lover’s heaven. Treks up Padar or out to hidden waterfalls in inland Flores reward hikers with sweeping panoramas and golden-hued savannahs, especially at sunrise.

The dry season (April - Sept) is the peak for island-hopping and spotting Komodo dragons without a drop of rain in sight. With fewer water sources around, dragons tend to wander into the open, and calm seas mean easier sailing across the park’s islands. It’s all about clear skies, calm waters and days that stretch from sunrise hikes to coconut sundowners by the pink beach.

The rainy season (Oct - March) brings lush green hills, fewer crowds and some surprisingly good travel deals. While the dragons lie lower and the trails get slicker, this time of year has its own rhythm with short afternoon downpours, dramatic skies and a quieter, slower Flores. Photographers will love the post-shower clarity and dramatic cloudscapes that paint the horizon, plus, cooler breezes make long treks more easygoing.

Komodo sightings peak in the dry season (April - early Oct), when water sources are scarce and the dragons gather near rivers and trails. Mating season (July - Aug) brings fascinating behaviours like dominance contests and slow-motion pursuits, but some dragons may be harder to spot as they seek shade and seclusion. With a good local guide, though, even these quieter moments can reveal a wilder side of the park.

April to November is prime time for diving, offering calm seas and visibility up to 30 m. For the best underwater conditions, especially around signature sites like Batu Bolong, Castle Rock and Manta Point, aim for June to October. You’ll spot reef sharks, turtles, mantas and massive schools of snapper, all while navigating Southeast Asia’s clear tropical waters.

Komodo Festival (March) is when the islands light up with boat parades, traditional dances and the scent of rendang in the air.

Golo Koe Festival (mid August) honours the Assumption of Mary, celebrating with religious processions, Caci ‘whip’ dances and Manggarai ritual.

Penti Ceremony (Oct - Nov) offers a rare invitation into ancestral village life through a sacred Manggarai harvest celebration shaped by prayer, food and generations of tradition. Expect village processions, symbolic offerings, and a communal warmth that stays far beyond the festivities.

Komodo dragons’ mating season (July - Aug) may affect visibility, but you might catch rare displays of strength and courtship.

Best underwater visibility runs from April - Nov, with especially calm seas from Sept –Nov.

Even in tropical destinations, packing lists do change a bit depending on when you’re travelling. Whether it’s humid and wet or hot and dry, make sure you’ve got the right gear for the weather.