Cologne sits right on the Rhine, and you feel the river the moment you arrive. Twin Gothic spires rise more than 150 metres above the old town, river barges glide past below, and the whole city moves at a relaxed, unhurried pace. Locals will tell you Cologne isn't Germany's biggest city or its most famous. They'll also tell you it's the one they'd choose to live in.

It's an easy city to base yourself in, too. Stay by the cathedral and you're in the thick of the action. Cross the river to Deutz and you get the classic postcard skyline instead, spires reflected in the water. Duck into one of the arts districts and you get a slower, more local pace. Cologne has room for all three.

The city has its own beer style too, Kölsch, poured into slim little glasses and topped up by waiters who keep coming back until you flip a coaster over the top to call it quits. Cologne is also where Eau de Cologne was first made, back in 1799, so plenty of visitors leave with a bottle of the original alongside the usual souvenirs.

Where to stay in Cologne

• Altstadt (Old Town) - right beside the cathedral and the Rhine promenade, with cobbled lanes, riverside bars and every major sight within walking distance. The most convenient base for a first visit, though it gets busy with day-trippers.
• Belgian Quarter (Belgisches Viertel) - leafy streets named after Belgian provinces, filled with independent boutiques, record shops and wine bars. Good if you want to feel like a local rather than a tourist.
• Ehrenfeld - Cologne's arts district, all murals, secondhand bookshops and small-batch coffee roasters. A bit further from the sights but a genuinely creative, local pocket of the city.
• Deutz - across the river from the old town, with wide Rhine-front paths, Rheinpark's gardens and that famous view back at the cathedral. Quieter, and a smart choice for families.
• Rheinauhafen - Cologne's old harbour, reinvented with glass-and-steel "Kranhäuser" crane buildings, waterside restaurants and a modern, design-led feel.

How much is Cologne accommodation?

Expect to pay around AU$140 a night on average for a comfortable double room in Cologne, though it swings a long way either side depending on season and how close you are to the cathedral.

• Hostels and budget rooms - from AU$45 a night for a hostel bed, or around AU$90 for a simple private room. Fine for a short stay if you're spending most of your time out exploring.
• Budget hotels and guesthouses - from around AU$110 a night. Compact rooms, reliable Wi-Fi, usually a short tram ride from the centre.
• Mid-range hotels and apartments - from around AU$160 a night. This is where most visitors land, with a proper breakfast room and a location inside or close to the Altstadt or Belgian Quarter.
• Boutique stays - from around AU$220 a night. Design-led rooms, often in a converted historic building or one of the Rheinauhafen crane houses.
• Luxury hotels - from around AU$320 a night, climbing well past that for a cathedral-view suite during Carnival or a big trade fair.

Top-rated hotels in Cologne

• Excelsior Hotel Ernst - a grand 19th-century hotel standing directly across the square from the cathedral, with a wine cellar rated among the best in the city.
• Hyatt Regency Cologne - on the Deutz side of the river, with rooms that line up the twin spires perfectly through floor-to-ceiling windows.
• Dorint Hotel am Heumarkt Köln - a full spa hotel with an indoor pool and sauna, a genuine option for unwinding after a day on your feet.
• CityClass Hotel Alter Markt - set right on one of the Altstadt's prettiest squares, with gabled townhouses and beer gardens on the doorstep.
• K-Apart Hotel & Boardinghouse - apartment-style rooms with kitchenettes and a well-equipped gym, good value if you're staying more than a couple of nights.

Tips for finding the perfect accommodation in Cologne

• Carnival season, usually February or early March, fills every hotel in the city and pushes prices up sharply. Book weeks ahead if your trip lines up with it, or expect resort-level rates for an ordinary room.
• Cologne hosts some of Europe's biggest trade fairs, and rooms near the Messe grounds and the Altstadt sell out fast during exhibition weeks. Check the fair calendar before you book if your dates are flexible.
• Staying near the Hauptbahnhof puts you a short walk from the cathedral and a fast train ride from Bonn or Düsseldorf, handy for day trips.
• Cologne Bonn Airport is small and only about 15 minutes from the centre by train, so there's rarely a good reason to book near the airport unless you've got a very early flight.
• If cathedral views matter to you, filter for hotels on the Deutz side specifically. Old town hotels sit close to the cathedral but rarely have a clear line of sight to it.

However you split your stay between the old town and the riverside, Cologne is compact enough that nothing is ever far away. Most of the sights, and most of the best Kölsch bars, sit within a twenty-minute walk of each other.