Ludza sits in the hills of eastern Latvia's Latgale region, and it earns its nickname honestly. Two lakes wrap around the town centre, Lielais Ludzas ezers and Mazais Ludzas ezers, with dozens more dotted through the countryside around it. It's one of the oldest towns in Latvia, and it still moves at an old town's pace. You can walk from one end to the other in about fifteen minutes, past a grassy hilltop of castle ruins that looks out over both lakes at once, easily the best view in town.

Getting there takes a bit of effort, and that's part of the appeal. Direct trains run from Riga to Ludza, a few hours through open Latgale countryside, so it slots in easily if you're already touring the region's lakes by road or rail.

Accommodation here is small-scale and practical. There's no sprawl of chain hotels, just a handful of family-run places that make good use of the lake views. Book ahead for July and August, when warm weather brings people out onto the water for swimming and boating; the rest of the year, rooms are easy to find.

Where to stay in Ludza

• Old Town centre - the small historic core, an easy walk to the castle hill and the main lake, with a couple of guesthouses tucked into older buildings.
• Lakeside, near Lielais Ludzas ezers - the pick for lake views and morning walks along the water, a short stroll from the centre.
• Out in the Ludza countryside - holiday complexes and cottages scattered around the smaller lakes outside town, better suited to a longer, quieter stay if you've got your own transport.

How much is Ludza accommodation?

A night in Ludza typically starts from around AU$45, cheap by any measure and a fraction of what you'd pay in Riga. Here's roughly what each tier gets you.

• Budget guesthouses - from AU$45 per night. A simple private room, shared or ensuite bathroom, and usually a home-cooked breakfast.
• Mid-range hotels - from AU$65 per night. Ensuite rooms, an on-site restaurant, and often a sauna or hot tub thrown in, which is fairly standard for small-town Latvian hotels.
• Lakeside holiday complexes - from AU$85 per night. Self-catering cabins or apartments right on the water, with enough space for a family or small group.
• Countryside retreats - from AU$100 per night. Private cottages further out, often with their own stretch of lake shore, a boat, and a barbecue area.

Don't expect a five-star resort tier here. Ludza is a small town, and its accommodation matches that: honest, comfortable, and priced accordingly.

Top-rated hotels in Ludza

• Hotel Ludza - the town's main hotel, set among four small lakes, with its own sauna and hot tub to warm up in after a walk by the water.
• Lucia - self check-in rooms inside a historic Old Town building, with a hot tub and sauna and some of the best guest ratings in town.
• Holiday Complex Cirmas Ezerkrasts - lakeside cabins geared toward longer stays, with direct access to the water.
• Villa Fortuna - a small design-led guesthouse near the town park, an easy walk from the centre.

Tips for finding the perfect accommodation in Ludza

• Book ahead for July and August. Warm weather brings the only real seasonal rush, mostly locals and other Latvians heading out to the lakes.
• Pick lakeside if a morning walk by the water matters to you. Pick the Old Town centre if you'd rather be five minutes from the castle hill and the shops.
• Bring your own transport if you want the countryside holiday complexes. Most sit outside town with no regular bus service.
• Check whether breakfast is included. Smaller guesthouses often charge for it separately, while the larger hotels usually bundle it in.
• Pack for quiet evenings. Ludza is a small town and most things close early, so plan on dinner at your hotel or heading out before 8pm.
• Use Ludza as a base, not just a stopover. The municipality has more than a hundred lakes, so a hotel here puts you within easy reach of plenty besides the two in town.

Ludza makes an easy stop on a longer trip through Latgale, Latvia's self-styled land of blue lakes. A night or two here is enough to see the castle ruins, walk the lakeshore, and get a feel for one of the country's oldest towns before moving on.