Latvia's second-largest city, Daugavpils sits on a bend of the Daugava River near the Belarus and Lithuanian borders. It's the birthplace of the painter Mark Rothko, and the 19th-century fortress that once guarded the river now houses the only place in Eastern Europe with an original Rothko collection, along with a handful of smaller museums and a working ceramics studio carrying on Latgale's old pottery tradition. The skyline itself is a quiet curiosity too, with several distinct church spires clustered within a few blocks of the centre, different architectural styles standing side by side in a way you don't see in many other Baltic cities.

It's a smaller, more relaxed base than Riga, and prices reflect that. You'll find a stay to match however you're travelling, from cosy riverside guesthouses to a hotel set right inside the fortress walls.

Where to stay in Daugavpils

• City Centre. The streets around Rīgas iela keep you close to the main shops, cafes and the bus station, handy if you're combining Daugavpils with a longer trip through Latgale.
• Near Daugavpils Fortress. The fortress grounds hold the Rothko Art Centre and several smaller museums, so staying nearby means you can wander over on foot rather than plan a whole outing around it.
• Along the Daugava riverside. The Bruģu Street promenade runs for over a kilometre along the right bank, a good pick if you want a proper morning walk before breakfast.
• Near the railway station. Daugavpils sits on a major junction linking Riga, Vilnius and onward routes, so this end of town suits an early departure or a late arrival.
• Around Vienības Square. The city's main square is anchored by the art deco Unity House and the local theatre, with a small handicrafts museum tucked just off it. It's the easiest base if you'd rather walk everywhere than plan transport.

How much is Daugavpils accommodation?

A comfortable double room here typically runs from about AU$45 to AU$70 a night, noticeably cheaper than Riga for a similar standard.

• Hostels. From AU$25 per night. Dorm beds and simple private rooms, usually walkable to the centre.
• Budget hotels and guesthouses. From AU$45 per night. Clean, no-frills rooms, often family-run.
• Mid-range hotels and apartments. From AU$70 per night. Private bathrooms, breakfast included, sometimes a lift and on-site parking.
• Boutique stays. From AU$95 per night. Restored heritage buildings with a bit more character, mostly in the old town.
• Upscale stays. From AU$140 per night. The smallest tier in Daugavpils, but it includes the fortress residences and a few full-service hotels with a restaurant and bar on site.

Rates climb a little around summer festivals and university intake weekends, so book a few weeks out if your dates land near either.

Top-rated hotels in Daugavpils

• Biplan Hotel. A restored 19th-century building a short walk from the Daugava, with a breakfast spread that regularly gets singled out in reviews.
• Park Hotel Latgola. A reliable mid-range pick with a restaurant, bar and rooms that look out over the park across the road.
• SanMari. Smaller and quieter, with a well-regarded breakfast and rooms that feel more like a private apartment than a hotel.
• Duets. Tucked into a peaceful residential street close to the centre, with a garden and barbecue area that earns its keep in the warmer months.
• Daugavpils Mark Rothko Art Center Residences. Ten rooms inside the fortress's old Artillery Arsenal, right above the museum itself. About as close as you can get to the art without staying in the gallery.

Tips for finding the perfect accommodation in Daugavpils

• Book close to the fortress if the Rothko Centre is the main reason for your trip. It's a 15 to 20 minute walk from the centre, further than it looks on a map.
• Daugavpils is a genuine rail and road junction between Riga, Vilnius and the wider Baltic region, so a room near the station saves you a taxi if you're arriving or leaving early.
• Ask about parking before you book if you're driving in. Older buildings in the centre don't always have their own car park, and street parking gets tight near the market.
• Spring and autumn are your best bet for a lower rate. Midsummer books out fastest around local festivals.
• Check whether breakfast is included. At this price point it usually is, but it's worth a quick scan of recent reviews rather than assuming.
• Leave room in your bag for a souvenir. The Daugavpils Clay Art Centre, near the fortress, sells hand-thrown Latgale pottery made on site and is worth a stop even if you're not usually one for souvenir shopping.