The free lesson from Kiki’s mom.
I had an unexpectedly wonderful and educational experience at the Union Hotel in Cusco, where I met Veronica—who affectionately calls herself “Kiki’s mom.” Kiki is a smart 10-month-old Huacaya alpaca (one of the two alpaca types) living in the hotel courtyard. Veronica comes every day to care for her, and what began as a casual encounter turned into an incredibly informative, hands-on cultural lesson.
Veronica is from Quiquijana, in the province of Quispicanchi. She brought with her a rich collection of materials, including all four types of highland fibers from the Cusco and Machu Picchu regions. Her explanations were immediately practical—especially for travelers hoping to buy authentic souvenirs. She taught us how to distinguish real fibers from fake ones simply by touching and smelling them, which is invaluable in local markets.
She also demonstrated the use of a traditional tool called the pushka, used since pre-Inca times to spin animal fibers into yarn, and explained how these threads are then turned into blankets, clothing, hats, and more. One particularly moving moment was when she proudly showed a textile made by her grandmother—an “alive” piece of heritage filled with symbols, each carrying its own meaning.
What impressed me most was her demonstration of natural dyeing. Using only water, a white translucent alum stone, and cochineal, she showed how dozens of vibrant colors can be created.
